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<h3>Koi Pond: Water Chemistry</h3>
 
The most basic conditions of your koi pond water chemistry are the pH factor (which stands for potential Hydrogen) and water hardness. These factors alone can determine the life or death of your koi pond’s inhabitants (I call them the “Fam Fam”). 
 
The pH of the koi pond water is measured on a scale of 1-14, with a reading of 7 considered “neutral.” Any reading above 7 is alkaline; anything below 7 is acidic. Most fish prefer a pH value of 7.2 to 7.6, or just slightly on the alkaline side of the scale. However, koi and goldfish can adjust to gradual changes in pH from as low as 7 to as high as 8.5 and still remain healthy and flourish. 
 
Hardness or buffers in the koi pond water can raise the pH levels. Even though hardness is a separate measure from pH, the two respond to each other chemically. Pure or “distilled” water has a pH of 7 and an absence of buffers or hardness. Neutral pH is unstable, however, and if it has no buffers or hardness, it can quickly drop to the lower (acidic) end of the pH scale – as low as 4.2 to 4.8. At this level of acidity the fish’s gills become burned and eventually become unable to extract oxygen from the water, ultimately suffocating. 
 
Should the pH in your koi pond ever drop to these levels, never try to raise the pH too quickly. By placing coral gravel, dolomite, or oyster shell gravel in a nylon filter bag inside your filter or directly in the waterfall, moving water can pass through it and the pH will rise to 7.0 or 7.3 in less than two days. 
 
To prevent the drastic fluctuation in hardness buffers affecting pH, you should include one or more of these gravels in your filter system at all times – especially if you are replenishing your pond with soft water. The gravel should be replaced every 9 to 12 months since all the buffers will be leached out by that time. If the buffers are used up and the pH level drops to 6.0 or lower, the nitrifying bacteria that break down the toxic fish waste, ammonia, and nitrite will stop functioning. At a low pH, highly toxic ammonia chemically changes to relatively non-toxic ammonium. If you raise the pH rapidly, the ammonium will also quickly return to ammonia, which could be fatal to your fish. 
 
Please invest in the health of your fish. Purchase a koi pond test kit from any pet or pond store. Invest the time to read the directions and start regularly testing your koi pond. Remember, clear water does not mean clean! As in the water we drink, just because the water looks clear, smells good, and tastes good does not mean it is clean. 
 
Most of the most toxic, cancer-causing priority pollutants listed by the E.P.A are colorless, odorless, and tasteless. Do not ever forget the simple facts: You have a toilet in a separate room of your house. Your scaly friend’s living room is their toilet, and they have to swim in it. Keep it flushed and clean. 
 
If you do not presently have a bio-filter, please purchase one, or at no cost to you, download instructions and a parts list of simple items you can purchase from any home improvement store for less then $65 and build one yourself using an electric drill and a hand saw. download with no oblication or log in required at - http://www.askdoughoover.com 
Happy koi, peace and joy. 
 
 
Author Info
 
Douglas C. Hoover; CEO of Aquamedia Corp, Master Waterfall Builder, architect, engineer, freelance writer, author, designer & builder of over 1,900 waterfall and ponds in CA (26 years). Author of \"Waterfall and Pond Construction Manual\" and developer of the \"Water Feature Digital Design Library 4.0\" Free downloads, no sign in- http://www.askdoughoover.com 
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